Saturday, October 5, 2013
“Virgule, etc…in the Footsteps of Roger Vivier”
Virgule is a new exhibition in the Saut du Loup section of the Palais de Tokyo, in Paris and celebrates the iconic shoe designer Roger Vivier as an artist. This is the first comprehensive exploration of the designer's work since 1987. The retrospective follows the earlier publication of a book about the house’s history. Vivier was born in Paris in 1907 and started his own label in 1963, after a full decade working at Dior. Vivier was the architect of some of the world's greatest moments on heels, shoemaker of record for the coronation of Elizabeth II and Luis Buñuel's Belle de Jour. He created the curved Virgule heel as a signature, to differentiate his work post-Dior.
On display are 170 shoes pulled from collections across the globe and gives a great spectrum of his imaginative range at work. The exhibits are grouped by visual themes, without heed for chronology. Each theme is named after different art movements such as: the Department of Egyptian Antiquities (gilt and vermeil), the Gallery of Post-Impressionists (beautiful prints), the Corridor of English Paintings (satins and silk failles), the Italian and Spanish Sculptures (lace overlays and voluminous tulle). 'Virgule' includes a room dedicated to sketches and collages by the designer. The collection spans some of Roger Vivier’s earliest designs, including models made for Christian Dior in the Fifties, through the decades when he created his iconic stiletto and comma heels, and includes recent models by current creative director Bruno Frisoni . The exhibition runs through Nov. 18th and includes drawings and collages by Vivier and sketches by Frisoni. There is a Roger Vivier iPhone app with additional information tied to the exhibition.